Wednesday, November 14, 2007

Istanbul - a Turkish delight

Every fall my girlfriends from university and I take a trip together to a new city in the world. This was the 11th year in a row since we started so it’s really become a tradition that neither of us want to miss. Several of the girls are now married and have families but still take the time for the fall long-weekend with the girls. I have missed a few trips over the years but was glad I could make this one. In fact, this was the first time all eight of us could join.

Istanbul turned out to be a very pleasant surprise. I had somehow imagined it to be a lot more “Turkish”, i.e. more Middle Eastern, old-fashioned, with a hustle and bustle of street mongers and such. But the capital of Turkey was very modern and European – well, perhaps that was after all not so strange since Istanbul stretches over both Europe and Asia, and we spent our 3.5 days only on the European side. People were really friendly and relaxed, were fashion-conscious and dressed well.

Istanbul is the former capital and center of the Byzantine and Ottoman empires. The city boasts 2700 years of history and as such is blessed with lots of beautiful, historical architecture and Oriental cultural treasures. The river Bosphorus unites the two continents and two seas, the Marmara Sea and the Black Sea.

We stayed at the Hotel Armada Istanbul on Ahirkapi Sokak No. 24 in the old city on the historical peninsula of Istanbul, at convenient walking distance from everything we wanted to see, and only 100 meters or so from the Marmara Sea. Situated alongside Byzantine city walls, the hotel is decorated in Ottoman style, has a large lobby with examples of Ottoman art and a little water fountain with turtles. Every morning we enjoyed a fabulous breakfast buffet on the top floor. The hotel has a roof terrace with a magnificent view of the old city and the Marmara Sea. See pictures below.

Turtles in the Armada lobby

Armada hotel roof terrace

Mimmis at the Marmara Sea

On Thursday night when we arrived we went for dinner at Mozaik Restaurant, located right in the center of the historical peninsula, on a small street called İncili Çavuş off of the bigger Divanyolu Caddesi and close to both the Blue Mosque and Haghia Sophia. We got a table in a room on the second floor. The building is an old Ottoman house which was renovated in 1996, and the restaurant serves Ottoman and Turkish cuisine. It was a quaint place and the food and wine decent but not memorable. It felt a little too touristy. We were all tired from the trip and got to bed before midnight.

Sultanahmet (Blue) Mosque
Friday started with a walk to the close-by Blue Mosque. This mosque is a beautiful and impressive building with six minarets, built 1610-1617 under the reign of Sultan Ahmet I by Sedefkar Mehmet Ağa, a student of Sinan (the architect of the Turkish bath further down in this blog post). You had to take off your shoes before entering. The whole floor of the huge mosque was covered by the biggest Oriental rug I’ve ever seen, all in a red and light blue pattern.


With the light playing through 260 different windows on the 20,000 Iznik tiles decorated in plant and flower motifs, predominantly in blue and turquoise colors, which covered the walls, ceiling and supportive pillars of the mosque, I understood why the mosque had received its name.


Blue Mosque ceiling

There were also some surrounding and near-by buildings for public use, such as the Arasta Bazaar, a theological school, a clock tower and the largest double Turkish bath in Istanbul, Haseki Hürrem Sultan Hamman, situated beside the park between Sultanahmet and Hagia Sophia, the latter which was next on our itinerary.


Blue Mosque and the park

The Blue Mosque is also beautifully lit at night.



Ayasofya – Hagia Sophia – St. Sophia Cathedral
The huge dome Hagia Sophia is today a museum and not used for worship. It has a very old history. First built on a circular plan by Emperor Constantine in 60 A.D., Hagia Sophia was burned in an uprising in 404 and later destroyed in riots in 532. Emperor Justinian I rebuilt it as a rectangular basilica in 532-537 with a dome supported by 107 pillars as a symbol of “renewed unity” between the divided Roman Empire.

In 1453, Mehmet the Conqueror converted the church into a mosque. It has had repairs done over the centuries, among others in 1573 by the already mentioned legendary architect Sinan.

Park between Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia

Hagia Sophia



We had coffee at an outdoor cafe before heading to Istanbul’s old underground water system.



The Basilica Cistern
Located just southwest of Hagia Sophia, the 8,970 m² underground Byzantine water cistern named the Basilica Cistern, was built by Emperor Justinian I in the 6th century – the age of glory for Eastern Rome – to supply the city with water. The 4.80-meter thick firebrick walls and the brick floor of the cistern were plastered with a thick layer of Horasan mortar and made water-resistant. This cistern has the capacity to store 100,000 tons of water.

It is called “the Sinking Palace” by the public due to 336 marble columns, each 9 meters high, rising out of the water. Arranged in 12 rows of 28 pillars each, these are holding up the ceiling vaults of the 140 meters long and 70 meters wide water cistern, providing a spectacular effect in the dimly lit, huge rectangular underground area. As you walk around in the cistern on walking platforms you can hear the slight dripping of water and voices from other tourists echo among the columns and even see fish swim in the water.

My camera phone did not manage the darkness in the underground water cistern very well, so the pictures below are from a brochure and a postcard.




The cistern's water was provided from the Belgrade woods, which lie 19km north of the city, via aqueducts built by Emperor Justinian. The Basilica Cistern was used to supply water to the Byzantine palaces and later for watering the sultan’s palace gardens for a short time after the conquest of Istanbul by the Ottomans in 1453. However, the Ottomans who preferred flowing water to stagnant one, constructed their own water system in the city and the water from the Basilica Cistern was no longer used. Rediscovered by a Dutch traveller in the 16th century, P. Gyllius, who came to Istanbul for research work on Byzantine remains, the cistern got explored, measured and introduced to the west as an impressive work of art.

The vast majority of the columns in the Basilica Cistern are cylinder-shaped, but there are two columns found in the northwest corner of the cistern which have two Medusa’s heads as their base, one tilted on the side and one upside down. The Medusa’s heads have snakes instead of hair. These are Roman Age art sculptures surrounded by mythological stories. The mythological history of Medusa has a few different angles:
  1. According to one story, Medusa was one of three sisters of the underground giant Gorgona. Out of these three sisters only Medusa, who had the head of a snake, was mortal and she had the power of transforming people who looked at her into stone.

  2. According to another story, Medusa was a pretty girl who was very proud of her black eyes, long hair and beautiful body. She was in love with Perseus, the son of the Greek god Zeus. Goddess Athene, who was also in love with him, became jealous and turned Medusa’s hair into horrible snakes, and whoever looked at her from then on turned into stone. When Perseus discovered that Medusa was bewitched, he cut her head off and won many wars by showing his beloved’s head to enemies, thereby turning them into stone. It is said that this is the reason why Byzantine swords’ handles from then onwards were stylized with Medusa’s head.

  3. A third story says that Medusa looked into the mirror and turned herself into stone.

These stories are said to be the reason why the Medusa’s heads are placed on the side or upside down – in order that people looking at them will not become stones. In the old times statues and pictures of Medusa were placed in very important buildings and private homes to protect against bad omens.

After the visit to the impressive Basilica Cistern, it was time for lunch. I had Turkish meatballs with a form of garlic yoghurt sauce similar to Greek tzatziki.



Topkapi Palace
After bargaining over the price for a 2-3 hour guided tour of the palace grounds with a local guide, we set off to learn and see as much as possible in the remaining opening hours that day.



The guide was well-versed in history and politics through times. I wish I could remember a fraction of all the things he told us about the Byzantine and Ottoman history and culture, but I will have to cheat by reading a couple of tourist leaflets. One of the interesting points he brought up during our tour, though, was that Turkey has applied for membership in the European Union. If accepted, it would be the first Muslim country in the EU. Turkey has set out to modernize and make its economy more progressive, but it has many barriers to overcome before an EU membership can be accepted, including Turkish recognition of Cyprus. All else aside, having a Muslim membership state in the EU might help bring some cultural awareness and increased understanding between the Western and Muslim worlds which would be very positive.

The Topkapi Palace was the Ottomans’ second palace in Istanbul. Built in the 15th century on the ruins of the former Byzantine Acropolis by Mehmet the Conqueror, and later added to by various sultans as needed, its construction includes several courtyards, many buildings and surrounding walls. The Topkapi Palace, covering an area of 70 hectares, was once a city palace with a population of approx 4,000 people. It has housed all the Ottoman sultans from Sultan Mehmet II to Sultan Abdulmecit – nearly four centuries and 25 sultans. It was turned into a museum in 1924.

Topkapi Palace

The palace has four courtyards. The first one was open to the public and used to be the service area of the palace consisting of a hospital, a bakery, an arsenal, the mint (where coins were made) etc. In its time, this courtyard was like the city square where the court and people met. You can also see the Byzantine church of Hagia Eirene (St. Irene) in the first courtyard, built before Hagia Sophia and renovated by Constantine in the 4th century.

Hagia Eirene

In addition to being the imperial residence of the sultan, his court and harem, the Topkapi Palace was also the center of the state administration. The second courtyard was the seat of the Divan, the Imperial Council, and was open to anyone who had business with the Divan.

Imperial Council Hall

In addition to the Divan, the second courtyard also housed the kitchens and stables. The kitchen buildings today has great samples of huge cooking utensils, a collection of fine porcelain from Turkey, Japan and China (the Chinese porcelain collection is apparently the third most valuable in the world), buildings with an impressive collection of Ottoman silverware, armoury and much more.

Cooking utensils in the kitchens
Ewer from the Ming Dynasty (16th century)
Ottoman silverware
Armory

In the second courtyard you could also find the entrance to the Harem. The harem in general was a part of a Muslim house that was dedicated to the family and closed to the outside world. It was also the special quarters of the Ottoman palace in which the dynasty lived. Non-Muslim concubines were accepted to the harem in the palace and they sometimes had the chance to become part of the dynasty as Sultans’ wives and became the Queen Mother, but most of them married Ottoman bureaucrats.

Harem’s buildings
Eunuchs working in the harems

Typical blue tile pattern


The Sultan’s reception hall where he was entertained. Whenever the Sultan wanted to talk, the water fountains / taps along the wall were started so as to drown what was being said.

View over Istanbul from the palace

Harem’s buildings

The third courtyard housed the Audience Hall where foreign ambassadors and the results of Divan meetings were presented to the sultan. It also had a library, an exhibition of Sultans’ costumes and some holy relics of Islam as well as the Treasury where a number of precious objects and jewellery, including the famous 86-carat, drop-shaped Kaşikçi Elmasi (the “Spoonmaker’s Diamond”) and the Topkapi Emerald Dagger, were on display.

By the time we reached the fourth courtyard, the palace grounds were closing and we did not have time to look at any of the summer pavilions located there, only have a quick view over the Golden Horn (horn-shaped river mouth and natural harbor, dividing the European Istanbul in a southern and northern part) and the Bosphorus.


Fountain of Ahmet III, at the entrance of Topkapi Palace

360
On Friday night we went to a nightclub & restaurant in the modern city center of Istanbul with Umut, a Turkish colleague of Jessica’s, and his friend Cuneyt.

Jessica & Umut

The place was called 360 based on its 360-degree view over Istanbul on the top floor of a skyscraper in the Beyoğlu area. It had a roof-top terrace for those who wanted to go out and smoke but it was extremely windy and chilly that night so after a quick look at the view we returned to the crowd and warmth inside.

After a great meal with good wine, we had drinks at the bar waiting for the “clubbing” to start at midnight. Most of the girls, Umut and Cuneyt were tired and therefore left around midnight. Jessica and I were the last remaining at the club. She and I had a great time drinking gin & tonic, dancing to a female DJ duo – DJ Leigh & DJ lLgln – and watching some odd dance performance by a whip-lashing, modestly latex-clad woman, crawling around and doing high-kicks on a catwalk. A photographer from Partipix.com took our pictures (see below), and if you’re interested in seeing the pictures from that night, check out the Partipix website>>



Kapali Çarşi – the Grand Bazaar
Saturday was a day of heavy rain. We started with an excursion to the Grand Bazaar. This bazaar was huge with hundreds of shops under one roof with a myriad of aisles and side-streets with everything you can think of from decorated plates, glassware and ornate lamps to Turkish coffee, teas, water pipes, shoes, leather bags and clothes. In a moment of weakness (I’d like to call it spontaneity), I bought a sort of belly dancing costume with golden embroidery and dangling spangles, something I thought that I might use at some salsa congress when I feel daring enough.
Gabriella, Eva & Jessica at Grand Bazaar





Spice Bazaar
Close to the over 370-year-old (considered “new” in this historical city) Yeni Mosque on the northern side of the historical peninsula, there is a big Spice Bazaar. This is open Monday to Saturday 8:30-19:00 and has not only colourful spices, but herbs, dried nuts and fruit, Turkish delight and citrus plants.



The girls spent a good 40 minutes in one of the spice shops, smelling and selecting among a great number of spices. The salesman was good at his job. By being charming, funny and patient, he managed to convince the girls to smell this and that spice, sample some Turkish delight and various nuts, and they eventually ended up buying a lot more than they probably had originally planned.




Turkish bath house
On Saturday afternoon, we decided to try a Turkish tradition, a historical Turkish bath. Built by the Turkish architect Mimar Sinan in 1584, the Çemberlitaş Hamam (“hamam” means bath”) situated on Vezirhan Caddesi No.8 in the old city, is a still-functioning and well-attended public bath house. Commissioned by Nurbânu Sultan, the wife of Sultan Selim II and the mother of Sultan Murat III, this bath house is one of the most important works of 16th century Ottoman architecture.

Open from 6am to midnight every day of the year, the Turkish bath offers a very interesting experience… We paid an entrance fee, extra for full-body massage, and walked in, not quite knowing what to expect. There are two separate bath sections for men and women. You undress and store your belongings in a dressing room / locker area. Equipped only with the “peştemal”, a traditional thin cotton bath towel, slippers and a small washing-cloth, we entered the female bath chamber.

This consisted of a large heated central marble platform where you lined up for your individual bathing service by lying down on your towel, starting from the middle and skidding closer to the edges as the “washing matrons” expedited the service. Lying on the marble platform looking up at the circular ceiling of the bath chamber and slowly starting to perspire in the humid room, helped you relax before your bathing session. Lined up like beached whales on the platform, there were women in all sizes and shapes, buck-naked and revealing their flabby tummies, cellulite thighs and enormous or skinny but mostly hanging breasts. Quite scary picture, if you ask me. ;-)

When it was my turn, a big, fat Turkish woman with dangling breasts, naked apart from a tiny thong, gestured for me to lie down in front of her at the edge of the marble platform. In a very impersonal manner she then started washing me using my clean washing-cloth, scrubbing every part of my body, massaging my scalp and giving my shoulders a light rub massage. Slightly uncomfortable at first, you soon realized she had done this a thousand times before and couldn’t care less about your particular breasts and buttocks. There were also several individual skin-rubbing and washing areas situated along the walls around the platform, which is where my washing matron led me to wash my hair and poor cleansing water over me as a finishing touch.



You were free to stay as long as you wanted in the bathing chamber, rest on the heated marble platform or use any of the individual wash basins along the circular wall. I sat down in an adjoined room between the locker area and the bath chamber, waiting for my full-body massage. For 10 YTL you could get a quick wax while you waited. Lying down on a bench in plain view of anyone walking by or sitting in the same room, spreading your legs, and 5 minutes and a number of “ouch!” later you were done. No false modesty there!

Ortaköy pleasures
On Saturday evening half of the girls decided to go all the way to the Asian side of Istanbul while half of us had lingered too long at the Turkish bath, decided to chill and instead visit the closer situated Ortaköy area. Umut had recommended a fish and seafood restaurant called Park Fora on the western bank of the Bosphorus.



As you walked in, all the fresh fish and seafood for the evening were on display by the entrance. It was a quite busy night and there were many large tables with big families or groups of friends who enjoyed course after course. The food was great, but unfortunately the service was quite slow and the waiter misunderstood one of our orders so we were a little irritated. They made it up to us by complimentary baklava (a kind of sweet pastry) with the coffee. Normally, I’m not particularly fond of baklava but this was the best baklava I’ve ever had and I thoroughly enjoyed it.

After dinner we decided to try a nightclub a few hundred meters from the restaurant. Blackk was a trendy place (and rather dark, so I suppose the name of the club was rather fitting) with lots of young, fashion-conscious and beautiful people. The music was really good, a mix of old-school and new pop, rock, hip hop, R&B and disco. Eva, Gabriella, Jessica and I found a spot at the back of the club, next to one of the bars and the restrooms, were there was a little space for us to set down our drinks and dance. We had a good time and stayed for 1.5-2 hours.

On Sunday morning, the girls headed out early to go back to Sweden, while I took the opportunity to sleep in and check out at noon before heading for the airport to go back to London. It felt a little odd not going back to my home country with my girlfriends.

This has been a fabulous trip and Istanbul is perfect for a long-weekend get-away. If you haven’t been there, I can truly recommend it.


My Flickr album from Istanbul>>
Some photos are restricted to friends and family only. Those of you who are counted among these, can view all 239 photos.

My first 1.5 month as resident in the UK

Now a Londoner

Time flies; I have now officially been living in the United Kingdom for almost 1.5 month and don’t think that the penny has dropped yet. What I mean by that is that London feels kind of like Stockholm and any other big city in the world, albeit bigger than the capital of Sweden of course. I’m used to travelling a lot and using English as the communications language in my work every day, so it almost feels like I’m on an extended business trip. I have not yet realized the full implications of not living in my own home country anymore.

I finally found a place to live and “moved in” to a 2-bedroom apartment in Earls Court on October 1st. Well, actually my furniture didn’t arrive from Sweden until Wednesday the 3rd, and the apartment was not really ready to move into, but you can read more about that under “Cons” below. Here’s a list of random impressions of pros and cons of living in London:

PROS

1. Alessia, the Italian girl I met at the New York Salsa Congress earlier this fall, let me stay at her place near London Bridge for almost 1.5 week when I first arrived in London, while I was looking for flats. Both she and her flat mates, Turker and Joanna, were really friendly and hospitable, which gave me a nice first introduction to London.

2. On my very first night in London, Alessia invited me and another Italian salsera, Martina, along for dinner with Filippo, Luis and Yon in the boys’ top-floor apartment in Tower House with a roof terrace and marvellous view over London at walking distance from Aldgate East tube station.




3. Friendly salsa scene with lots of good dancers, some of them very handsome and charming too! :-) I now know where to go on what week-night.

4. Borough Market next to Southwark Cathedral on Saturdays – this is a well-stocked market-place with everything imaginable in one place; from fish, vegetables, huge pumpkins, and flowers, to wine from all over the world, all sorts of French and Stilton cheese, British jam and marmalades, all sorts of tea, sausages and salami... Next to Southwark Cathedral you can also get freshly made crêpes.

5. I like my new job. Symbian develops and licenses Symbian OS, the market-leading open operating system for smartphones. My colleagues are really friendly and welcoming and there are enough challenges to keep me motivated for a good while, I think.

6. Successful Symbian Smartphone Show at the ExCeL Centre and a great party.




7. London has many cool and trendy restaurants with really good food and I have already found a few that I imagine that I will return to many times:
  • Ping Pong on Eastcastle Street in SoHo near Oxford Circus – really good Asian fusion cuisine and fantastic cocktails.


    Luis, Filippo, Alessia, one of her former colleagues and friend at Alessia's birthday dinner at Ping Pong in October
  • Busaba Eathai, a Thai restaurant near Goodge Street in SoHo – excellent food, busy environment (not really the place if you want a romantic setting for two but perfect if you go with a group of friends) with friendly and service-minded staff.


    Mimmis, Luis & Martina at Busaba Ethai

  • Strada, a chain of Italian restaurants in England – good food at very decent prices in a nice, cosy setting.

  • Med Kitchen on Charing Cross Road, around the corner from Bar Salsa – fabulous pasta, however too heavy prior to dancing because you cannot help but eat all! ;-)
8. Wicked Halloween party at Tower House – lots of people, all really friendly and easy-going in truly international, cosmopolitan spirit; a mix of French, Italians, Spaniards, even a few Swedes, but I only met one Brit all night, and he was standing rather shyly in a corner of the roof terrace talking to no one before I walked up to him.

9. Nice walks along the river Thames – I like all the bridges and the way that the afternoon light and sunset glows on them.

Potters Fields Park
Tower Bridge

Cheyne Walk near Battersea Bridge
London Eye

10. The fact that most museums in England do not cost anything to enter. I went to the Tate Modern with colleagues to see an illusionist art exhibition and had a relaxing afternoon doing something I normally don't.


Spider statue outside Tate Modern - St. Paul's Cathedral in the background

11. The custom of British men (and for that matter women too) often calling you “love”, “hon’” (as in “honey”) or “darling” instead of “miss”, “Ma’am” or “Madam” – e.g. “Sorry, darling” when they bump into you or “Go ahead, love” when they step out of your way in the street. Wonderful! :-)

CONS

1. Foxtons, Foxtons, Foxtons! I’ve had nothing but issues related to the landlord and the lettings agency Foxtons since I moved in. Did you know that there is a "We hate Foxtons" web site?! http://www.wehatefoxtons.com/

2. Breach of contract - repainting not completed until Monday this week despite Addendum to my tenancy agreement clearly stating that, “The landlord will repaint all walls of the flat in the same neutral colour prior to the commencement of the tenancy” (which was October 1st).

3. Delayed and below-standard cleaning when I moved in which meant I have had to take care of the following issues myself:

  • Removing mud and filth in the detergent compartment and filter of the washing-machine.
  • Removing years’ worth of dirt on all skirting boards, door frames and top of doors.
  • Cleaning curtains / roller blinds and air vents.
  • Cleaning of cupboards and removing old, torn posters and a broken laundry rack in the hallway cupboard and dirty shelf papers stuck with tape or blue tac in bedroom cupboards (what I call general "junk").
  • Cleaning dirty and greasy kitchen fan (fan also in need of new filter).
  • Removing remnants of old food splatter in the top of the inside of the microwave.

4. Due to the cleaning not having been done upon delivery of all my furniture and belongings from Sweden, my moving company was not able to complete its work and unpack. So not only did I have to perform the cleaning on my own, but also all the unpacking.

5. Broken boiler meaning I had no hot water or heating the first 11-13 days of my tenancy.

This is the London rental market for you – a disgrace!

Monday, September 10, 2007

Flat hunting in London

I’ve just spent the weekend in London. I am changing jobs and start working for a new company on October1st, hence moving to the UK by the end of this month. I am very excited about this move, starting a new chapter in life. It will be the first time I live abroad.

I had some handover meetings with our PR agency at Piccadilly Circus on Friday and then went to my hotel near Gloucester Road and crashed… Still jetlagged from my New York trip, I ended up missing a salsa night in London, which I tried making up for by going to Salsa Palladium on Charing Cross Road near Leicester Square on Saturday night. It turned out to be a big disappointment and a waste of time – it was horrible, horrible, oh and did I mention horrible?! Most people who were there were absolutely shitfaced (pardon the language, but some colloquial slang seemed appropriate here) and could not dance. It was hot like a sauna in there and the floor was extremely sticky, and what’s more, they didn’t play one single salsa song during the full hour that it took me to queue for a Mojito at the bar, drink it while watching the swaying people on the dance floor and saying no to several guys who wanted to dance reggae ton or Latin disco with me… I then finally agreed to dance one merengue and one half-disco/half-salsa song before I couldn’t stand the place any longer. Remind me to never ever go to this place again! For a place called “Salsa Palladium”, I have never been farther from a salsa experience…

The rest of the weekend I have explored a couple of different parts of London and gone flat hunting – guess I need to start changing vocabulary now to more British… normally I would say “apartment”. I’ve seen some different places in the South Kensington / Earl’s Court area as well as Covent Garden.

Covent Garden Market


Martlett Court in Covent Garden

Although I haven’t yet quite found the type of flat I would like, I am confident it will work out by the end of the month. I met with a rental agency near Gloucester Road called Foxtons and the broker told me that flats are advertised and gone pretty fast in London, but if you’re willing to make fast decisions after you’ve seen a place you like, have your references and down payment (standard seems to be that you pay one month’s rent in advance + 6 weeks’ deposit) ready, you can actually get the keys and move in within a few days. Quite different from Sweden, where you usually have 1-3 months’ lead time… In Stockholm there can be several years’ waiting line for popular city areas, at least if you’re doing it the legal way....




Victorian style property in South Kensington


Left: Typical British phone booth. Right: Natural History Museum


Left: Victoria & Albert Museum. Right: Holy Trinity Brompton

I have grown very fond of the South Kensington area with its Victorian buildings and museums like the Natural History Museum, the Victoria & Albert and Science Museums. I hope to get a place in this area. The rents are in general three times higher than those for similar space and standard in Stockholm (well, the standard is perhaps not exactly comparable – they do things differently in the UK) but in order to do London properly I feel I don’t want the long commutes from any of the suburbs, so I guess I just have to suck it up and pay the price…

You can see more photos from London in my Flickr album here>>